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Hardware Replacement

Old Style Hardware Replacement

The old style hardware did not use threaded aluminum backing plates. The aluminum backing plates were drilled the same size as the screw. Nuts and washers were used to secure the screw, with fiberglass bonding the nut in place. We have found, now that these boats are ten or more years old, that the backing plates oxidize and the screws are frozen in place. To replace the hardware you must cut an access hole and remove and replace the nuts from the back side.

BOW FITTING - The factory method of replacing the bow fitting is to pull the rub rail off the bow, back past the curves (about five feet total). Drill out the rivets and separate the deck and hull with a sharp flat chisel. Open the deck enough to install a new backing plate. Bolt the new fitting in place using the new threaded backing plate. The flange and rub rail are then riveted and re-bonded. Order: bow fitting O.S. and flange repair kit containing rivets and adhesive.

Two other methods of repair are described below. Cut the old fitting just above the mounting flange, drill and tap two holes to accept an eye strap and 10~W24 machine screws. Replace with the new eye strap and two 10-24 screws. A third method is to bolt a fitting through the flange and rub rail using a flat bar on the underside secured with machine screws and nuts. Purchase a suitable fitting locally.

DECK (STAY) PLATES O.S. - The original deck plates were attached with #8 screws and nuts. The replacement fitting will be drilled for larger #10 screws and nuts which are included. Access is through an inspection port installed behind the mast step. The old style plate is not interchangeable with the new style as the mounting hole spacing is different and the matching stay adjusters are different.

MAST STEP O.S. - It is almost impossible to remove the screws or to even reach the nuts through an access port since the nuts are in the center of an under deck support system. The best way to replace the mast step is to hack saw the old one flush with the top of the mounting flange. File the surface flush with the tops of the screw heads, and mount a new fitting on top. It should be positioned so that the new holes fall between the old ones. The old fitting should be drilled and tapped to accept the 8~W32 machine screws.

HANDRAIL - The old style handrail is sold with new slotted head bolts and nuts since the old bolt will probably have to be cut through the spacer block. Access is through an inspection port installed under the handrail.

VINYL CAP (UPPER GUDGEON) - All vinyl caps are interchangeable. It may be necessary to run an 11/64" drill through one or more of the holes that accept the mounting screws. It also may be necessary to align the rudder hole by enlarging with a small round file or a 5/16" drill. The rudder should turn freely without binding in any position.

BRIDLE STRAPS - To replace bridle, cut the old bridle at the loop - do not remove the fittings. Order replacement bridle with attaching shackles. If the eye strap must be replaced, cut an inspection port in the rear of footwell or in the rear center of deck to reach the backing plate. The deck location will be much easier to work through.

LOWER GUDGEON - Cut inspection port; same as bridle strap above.

GLOVE BOX - These boxes are no longer available. If the box is broken and allows water to enter the hull, it should be replaced with a replacement plate. This is not a cover replacement; it replaces the box itself using the same holes and screws as the old box. If the old screws are stripped out, they can be filled with fiberglass or epoxy. The cover should be caulked with black silastic sealant. (The glove box has not been installed on Butterfly sailboats for at least three decades and there are currently no replacement or accessory parts available.)

New Style Hardware Replacement

Butterfly hulls with new style hardware have threaded aluminum backing plates. The hardware can be removed and replaced by simply removing screws. Caution: while in most cases the hardware can be easily changed, occasionally the fiberglass bonding the plate to the deck will coat the screws enough to make them difficult to remove. If a screw breaks during removal, it will have to be drilled out and the hole rethreaded. There is also the possibility of the plate dropping off due to pressure on the screws during removal or replacement. To avoid this, first loosen all screws one half turn. Remove all but one screw and pivot the old fitting out of the way. Start a screw through the new fitting before removing the old fitting and then after the old fitting is removed, swing the new one into place and install the remaining screws. For this reason we do not recommend removing fittings unless necessary, or removing handrails for refinishing with a little care, handrails can be sanded and varnished in place. If a damaged handrail must be replaced, pressure should be exerted, pulling the rail against the screw head as it is removed to avoid pushing the backing plate away from the hull.

VINYL CAP (UPPER GUDGEON) - All vinyl caps are interchangeable. It may be necessary to run an 11/64" drill through one or more of the holes that accept the mounting screws. It also may be necessary to align the rudder hole by enlarging with a small round file or a 5/16" drill. The rudder should turn freely without binding in any position.

BRIDLE STRAPS - To replace bridle, cut the old bridle at the loop - do not remove the fittings. Order replacement bridle with attaching shackles.

GLOVE BOX - These boxes are no longer available. If the box is broken and allows water to enter the hull, it should be replaced with a replacement plate. This is not a cover replacement; it replaces the box itself using the same holes and screws as the old box. If the old screws are stripped out, they can be filled with fiberglass or epoxy. The cover should be caulked with black silastic sealant. The replacement plate is No Longer Available.