Mast and Boom Repair
HALYARD LOCK ~W During the year 1970, a mini~Wcleat halyard lock was added to the top of the mast and a 3/16" halyard substituted for the 1/4" line. During 1971, the mini-cleat was replaced by a built in mast head lock. This same 3/16" halyard is used, but a knot must be tied in the halyard about 13 1/2 inches from the end, to catch in the jaws of the lock.
FORESTAY - During the summer of 1971, the forestay tang was replaced by a hound. The new design forestay with hound will replace any forestay with tang. A new 2 1/2" tang bolt should be used since some of the old tang bolts will not be long enough to catch the plastic insert in the elastic stop nut. The old tang screws should also be used to keep the mast sealed.
MAST PROBLEMS ~W If the mast does not rotate freely, replace rivets in the base and deck mast step or loosen the stays. If the mast swivels freely in one direction only, it is probably bent. If the two piece mast is difficult to take apart, grasp one hand on each side of the joint and shake as you pull; clean splice and apply aluminum lube.
MAST HEAD - If the mast fills with water when the boat is capsized, the mast head needs resealing. This can be done by running a bead of clear silastic caulking around the bottom of the mast head where it enters the extrusion and over the seam where the mast head halves are joined.
LOWER SECTION REPLACEMENT - The lower section of a two piece mast can be replaced with ordinary hand tools. The replacement section is furnished without the splice half or cleats. These parts may be used from the old section. All splices must be individually fitted, because of their close tolerance. Screws are furnished with a replacement section to replace the rivets in the original section. Detailed installation instructions are furnished with each replacement section.
If a lower section is to be replaced by a dealer or the factory, be sure to bring both sections. The splice from the damaged section will be used in the replacement section. If one section is lost, both splices will have to be new since a new splice will not properly match an old splice. In any case the fit must be made with both sections at hand.
MAST REPAIR - Bent masts can be straightened if no kinks exist. To straighten, clamp the mast to a bench or support and re-bend in the opposite direction. Usually the mast will have to be moved so that the straightening takes place over a large area rather than at one spot. Either a contoured or soft support should be placed under the mast to avoid creases or kinks. The secret to straightening masts is in making many gradual bends, rechecking each time. The straightness should be checked with the luff groove up, since the weight of the mast itself will cause a downward bend making a sighting inaccurate.
BOOM ~W The old style gooseneck was aluminum a-nd used an aluminum "U" shackle with an "L" shaped threaded tac screw tO attach the sail. The new style gooseneck is stainless stbejr and uses a stainless "U" shackle captive pin to attach the sail. The old style and new style U-shackles are interchangeable.
Old style booms used screws to attach the hardware. Oversize screws are available if these screws should strip out.
If the oversize screws strip out or if the rivets on the new style boom break, move the eye strap 1/2" using new screws and fill the old holes with screws epoxyed in place.