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Butterfly Rigging Instructions


1. ATTACH STAYS TO THE MAST. Place the forestay hound over the mast with the holes in alignment. Bolt the side stay (shroud) tangs on top of the hound with the tang bolt and elastic stop nut. The nut should be snug but not tight. Over tightening could affect the mast rotation and could crush mast if excessive pressure is applied. Once the stays are attached, they should be left on. Simply coil the stays together and tie them to the mast when car topping or trailering.

2. Attach the captive pin adjusters to the deck plates

3. Attach the keyhole adjuster to the bow fitting.

4. STRING THE HALYARD (36 foot, 3/16" Dacron line) through the casting and over the sheave wheel on the masthead. Tie the ends together so that the halyard will not slip out when stepping (setting up) the mast.

5. STEP THE MAST. If one person is stepping the mast by themselves, use the following procedure. Place the hull of the Butterfly near the shore in such a way that the boat is level from side to side, but with the bow lower than the stern. Lay the mast the length of the deck with the top of the mast toward the stern. Attach the two side stays to the stay adjusters with the clevis pins and split rings included. You will probably find that the mast will have the proper rake with the side stay clevis pins in the second or third hole from the top of the adjuster. Stand the mast on the round mast step in the center of the deck and be sure that it will stand by itself. Attach the forestay to the forward stay adjuster so that the stays are snug. The stays do not have to have tension as the mast will be properly supported even if the stays are one or two holes loose. Readjust stays so that the mast is vertical when the boat is level (See Adjustments Section). Once the correct mast angle is determined the adjusters may be left on the stays and removed from the boat at the captive pins.

6. INSERT THE BOOM through the sleeve on the bottom edge of the sail. You will find it easiest to fold the gooseneck flat against the tube and slide the forward end through the sleeve. Fasten the captive pin on the gooseneck through the grommet in the corner of the sail.


7. HOIST THE SAIL. Position the boat with the bow facing into the wind. Tie a simple over-hand knot in the halyard about 15 inches from the end. Tie the same end of the halyard to the head (top corner) of the sail about 6 inches from the end. Leading the luff edge of the sail (the edge with the sewed in rope) into the mast slot, carefully raise the sail by guiding it into the slot. Insert the gooseneck slide into the same slot and raise sail to the masthead. Guide the halyard through the lock on the forward edge of the masthead. By pulling sail down slightly the knot is locked in the jaws of the lock. (A mark can be made on the halyard so that the exact tying position can be easily determined.) Secure the free end of the halyard to the cleat on the side of the mast. To release the halyard, simply pull the free end forward out of the lock.

8. ATTACH THE OUTHAUL. One of the 3/16" x 40" lines is the outhaul. Tie the aft corner of the sail to the boom. Pull tight enough to remove large wrinkles in sail - tighter for higher winds, looser for light air.

9. ATTACH THE DOWNHAUL. The other 3/16" x 40" line is the downhaul. Tie one end to the ring on the gooseneck. Pull line down to remove large wrinkles in sail and tie to cleat on aft edge of mast. Use more pressure for high winds and no tension for light air.

10. STRING THE MAINSHEET. Attach the two blocks (pulleys) on the boom parallel to the boom. The shackle clevis pins should run through the holes in the block strap. Attach the block on the bridle with the shackle turned 90 degrees to the block so that the block is also parallel to the boom. The clevis pin should not go through the holes in the block, only through the strap. Snap the end of the mainsheet (36 foot heavy line) onto the boom end casting. Reeve the line down through the bridle block and up through both boom blocks.

11. ATTACH RUDDER. Making sure that the tiller goes under the bridle, attach the rudder to the fittings (gudgeons) on the transom. Be sure that the safety spring on the rudder snaps past the fitting. This is to prevent the rudder from accidentally coming off if the boat should capsize.

12. INSERT DAGGERBOARD. Dip the daggerboard into the water so that it slips through the snubber easily and then insert it through the slot with the rounded edge forward.